Monday, May 25, 2015

Camping at Hanging Lake


I went camping at Hanging Lake up the South Fork of Eagle River this weekend. It was a test-run for my brand new backpack I'll be taking on a week-long back country trip to Katmai in late June. It was good to see that my bear proof canister fit in there with my warm sleeping bag, but it is a tight fit. With some creativity and things strapped on the outside it should work. Plus, we'll be able to spread the communal gear among four of us in Katmai. All four of us will even have the same backpack - at least mine is a different color from the other three!

 New Osprey Exos pack - only 2 lbs 3 oz when empty!
When I headed out yesterday afternoon it was sprinkling, and it continued to rain all night, but I was cozy in my spacious two-person tent by myself. When I got up to Hanging Lake I was surprised that there was still ice on the lake and quite a bit of snow on the ground. I had forgotten that there is quite a bit of elevation difference between the lake and where we live in Eagle River. It was colder than I expected, but I was plenty warm in my zero degree (aka Alaskan summer) sleeping bag.

Hanging Lake
This morning the weather was a little better and once I started hiking out the sun stayed out and it was downright hot. There were tons of people once I got back to the main South Fork Trail. The last person I talked to before I got back to my car was not really having a great time. After we chatted for a minute I said "Enjoy your hike!" and started to head on my way when he replied "I'm done hiking already. To tell the truth, I hate this crap. I was never an outdoorsman." ....How do you respond to that??? I just laughed a little and kept hiking!

The very back of Hanging Valley

The water level is very low in all the creeks and ponds - so little snow to melt this year!

Descending from Hanging Valley

Sunday, May 17, 2015

Biking in Denali

At the top of Sable Pass
I had an incredibly beautiful weekend biking in Denali National Park. Right now the road is open to Teklanika (mile 29) for private vehicles and the buses don't start running until May 20. My cousin, a couple of friends, and I parked at Teklanika and biked out and back. It was perfectly clear, but very windy. We had a headwind on the way out and the going was tough, but on the way back it was a fantastic ride! Three of us made it just over Sable Pass (10 miles) to a nice view of Denali and took a little nap in the sunshine. The other two made it almost to Polychrome Pass (19 miles), but were turned around by a sow and cub on the road.

I didn't see any wildlife larger than a rabbit while biking, but on the drive back to the campground we saw three reindeer and a grizzly sow and cub.

I can't wait to do this again next year. I just wonder if there isn't any way but down with the weather though!

There were lots of other bikers out

Heading up Sable Pass

Just over Sable Pass with Denali in the background

Coming down Sable Pass

A practicing bus and driver passing in Sable Pass

A grizzly sow and cub on Savage River

Akutan 2015

It is deja vu in Akutan.  I was here last year in May, on the same boat, with the same captain, eating the same food.  This is not necessarily a bad thing.  While we jokingly refer to this place as Akutraz in reference to the notorious island prison, there could be worse places to be stuck.

While most days are cold or windy or rainy or some combination of the above, breaks in the weather remind us that we are working in a beautiful inlet surrounded by picturesque mountains freshly shaped by volcanic eruptions and glacial erosion.  And the work is rewarding too, this is an evolving and adaptive project with a breadth of acoustic tools being used to make quick decisions in the field.  That said, I look forward to being home in a couple weeks and seeing some real summer weather.  Here are a few photos from this trip to Akutan
Ever present sea otter eating a crab

Looking west toward the higher peaks of Aktan

My colleague Jason working at the survey station aboard the Miss Alyssa

The Trident seafood processing facility

Captain Jimmer with a live king crab

Overlooking Akutan Harbor and the Trident Seafood facility

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Birthday Fat Tire Bike Trip



Marta enjoying the April heat in a tank top!
Ann Marie cruising through the woods
Saturday was Ryan's birthday and we went on a fat tire bike adventure to the cabin with my cousin and a friend. Ryan was up there two weekends ago on a snowmachine and the trail was in good condition. Since then it has snowed a bit, but it has also been very warm (mid to high-40's during the day). We knew we were taking a bit of a risk with bad trail conditions, but sometimes doing something the slightly hard way is better than not doing it at all, and that was definitely the case!

When we started out late Saturday morning it was already warm and the trail was slushy. We were sliding around quite a bit and having a hard time staying on our bikes. About 100 yards into the nine mile ride, Ryan looked at me and said "Is it too slushy?" My response was "Well, we can always walk."

The first 4 1/2 miles of trail are usually easy as it follows the railroad tracks, is flat, and wide, but honestly it was quite challenging yesterday. Once we got into the woods, the next roughly 4 miles were a mix of very challenging slush with very deep puddles we had to avoid, and fairly hard sections that were comparatively easy. Unfortunately when we got to the last turn-off in the trail (the trail that goes only to our cabin), we realized how much it actually had snowed since the last time Ryan was there; the trail wasn't even visible. The snow was too soft to ride on top, so we pushed our bikes and post-holed/tried to stay on top of knee-deep snow for the last half mile. I was just happy it wasn't waist-deep!

At the cabin we enjoyed the sunshine until it clouded up, then we lounged around the woodstove drinking cocktails. Shortly thereafter, it hailed, then it snowed, and snowed, and snowed, or so it seemed (and it was in the 40s!). It was still so warm when we went to bed that I didn't think it would get below freezing for long that night and I didn't expect the trail to be much different on Sunday.



Ryan's birthday cake
On Sunday we left around 11 and when we made it back to the main trail we found that it was a thousand times better than it had been the day before! It was hard and the ~2" of new snow was fairly easy to break through. It was like a completely different ride. Ann Marie even said "So this is what snow biking is like!" It warmed up fast though and by the time we got to the railroad trail is was slushy again, but we couldn't complain at that point.


Warm enough for shorts!
Great trail conditions for fat tire biking!

Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Spring Running and Hiking

Views while running in Eagle River
Between the half marathon I'm training for in June and the absurdly snow-free warm spring we are having, I've been inspired to get outside and enjoy as much of it as I can. On Friday night I did my first long run for my training - 7.7 miles. The last bit of it by accident - due to a mis-measurement on Google Maps, I thought I was doing a 6 mile loop until I got home and measured again (due to the large discrepancy between how fast I normally run and how long it actually took me).

Unfortunately many trails are still glare ice, so I'm keeping my running to the gym and sidewalks for now. With views from our neighborhood like those above, I can hardly complain. Hiking with ice grippers however, is totally do-able right now. Even on the peaks where there is snow, it is not deep and it's hard packed and easy to walk on.

On Saturday I hiked Wolverine Peak (my first time) with my cousin and another friend. By the end of that one (11 miles round trip), my legs were tired (my cousin had even hiked Bird Ridge on Friday!). But we all rallied for an easy hike in the South Fork of Eagle River on Sunday anyway. You just can't keep Alaskans inside when the weather is fine; no one appreciates 50 degrees like we do.

Emily, Ann Marie, and Max the dog on our way up Wolverine Peak
Ann Marie on Wolverine
Last push to the summit of Wolverine
View to the Northeast from Wolverine
Almost to the top!
Easy South Fork hike

Sunday, March 22, 2015

Mile High Pass Coyotes



Taking advantage of the absurdly warm temperatures today, we hiked one of our usual trails, Mile High Pass. When we got to the pass we turned west, rather than our usual east and were lucky enough to see four coyotes ahead of us on the ridge. They watched us climb for a while, howled at us, and then took off.

Neither Ryan nor I have ever seen coyotes around here, but we did hear a few of them while hiking in Arctic Valley recently. We were just there at a lucky time today. It was clear from the footprints in the mud that another person had been up there earlier in the day, but had come and gone before we started around noon. While we were on the summit two other groups of people arrived, non of which got to see the coyotes.

The iPhone doesn't do much for distance shots, but you can get an idea of how the leader of the pack was watching us as we climbed the ridge.

Coyote under the red arrow and Teddy the dog finally noticing the canine strangers
zoomed in so you can see the coyote


Saturday, March 14, 2015

Eagle River Walk

View up Eagle River Valley from our front yard
We have an incredible stretch over the last five days of sun and really cold [for Anchorage] temps. The highs this week were in the single digits and the lows just below zero. Today my digital thermometer said it got up to 25 at our house, but there was a little breeze that made it a bit nippy. Our regular thermometer seemed pretty confused by solar radiation because it was showing 55 degrees, which it most definitely was not.

Even though there's ice and a bit of snow around the river, it does not look wintery at all in most of Anchorage and Eagle River. I have had serious cognitive dissidence all week every time I look outside because it is SO sunny, light until 8:00 at night, and there is almost no snow. There isn't even any frost, it is so dry. What I see and what I know is true (that's is really cold), just do not compute.

The run is almost over though, in a couple of days it's supposed to be 46 degrees and raining. However, I took advantage of the chance to wear my knee-length down jacket which has only come out of the closet one other time this winter.





The trail from the river to the condos
One of the annoying things about the lack of snow and these weird freeze/thaw cycles is that many of the trails are glare ice, even where the surrounding forest is snow-free. If there wasn't so much ice, I'd like to be out trail running.

Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Hotel Reviews in Europe

Our trip to London and Italy was one of the few times we have ever reserved accommodations ahead of time on our travels. Usually we fly by the seat of our pants and rely pretty heavily on guide books, but there is so much information out there on the internet it seemed like a shame not to use it. As everyone knows, you do have to read online reviews with a grain of salt. We certainly stay on the budget side of things, so you do sometimes have to be careful not to end up in a place that has pay by the hour rates or is just plain old crappy. For many of the budget hotels we looked at in Italy, some of the negative reviews really cracked me up. There were three recurring complaints, which based on the language, were mostly written by Europeans:


  1. The room was small. I can't believe this is something budget travelers complain about.
  2. Did not have a lift (or lift was broken). Buildings in Europe are OLD (to Americans). This should not surprise anyone.
  3. Breakfast did not have: eggs, ham, fresh fruit, yogurt, you name it, European budget travelers are apparently quite picky about their complimentary breakfast. My FAVORITE breakfast complaint review was "The breakfast was not very good, although not as bad as American hotel."
The reviews just cracked me up because I wanted to say to every single one of them "WHAT DO YOU EXPECT FOR $37/NIGHT??" Obviously, none of these things bother us. We travel with backpacks, it hardly matters if the room is larger than a double bed or that we have to carry our bags up a few flights of stairs. Breakfast? Total bonus. Also, breakfast is a cheap meal if you do have to eat out.

The things that I do take note of in reviews are things like: the toilet/window/lock was broken and the hotel staff couldn't/wouldn't fix it or things about terrible customer service. Those are deal breakers for me.

The hotel we stayed at in London had worn out carpet and furnishings, but you know what? It was completely perfect for the price we paid, given that it was two blocks away from the South Kensington Tube Station (it didn't hurt that they upgraded us to a nicer room for free - it gets 5 stars for customer service from me).

In Venice I found a heck of a deal on Kayak.com. I ended up on some booking website that I was only 50% convinced was legit. But, turned out it was and we got a pretty nice room, a Jacuzzi tub, and breakfast (eggs, ham, yogurt, and fresh fruit included!) for what we paid for okay places in other cities.

I'm not sure if we'll book ahead again in the future or go back to flying by the seat of our pants, but it turned out well for Italy (some places we only booked a day or two ahead).

Sunday, March 1, 2015

Hiking in the Sun and Fog


This morning Eagle River was completed socked-in, but it's not unusual for it to be foggy here in the morning and then burn off and get sunny. We decided to take our chances in Arctic Valley for a hike, but it was foggy there too...until we were almost at the trail head we broke out into the sun and it was crystal clear. They valley floor still had fog though, and the trail took us right down into it. We spent the day hiking in and out of the fog as it rolled in and out of the valley. When we got home to Eagle River, it was still socked-in. I don't think it ever cleared.

On a day like today, how can you not love this place?? We even heard coyotes howling while we were out hiking.

Of course, we still cannot believe how non-wintery it is. Plants are starting to bud out and that is never good in March in Alaska. As far as hiking goes, I think this is the spring that will drag on forever.


fog rolling in

fog lifting!

All clear! (briefly)

fog rolling in again

fog in the valley floor as we hiked out